Montmorillon is central to the Vienne’s Vallée des Fresques, alongside the River Gartempe, which gives visitors the opportunity to see a series of fabulous murals, dating from the 11 th century in churches, chapels and a chateau.
We would strongly recommend that even those guests whose interests lie outside the realms of Romanesque Art spend a least half a day exploring this rich heritage given that the area possess such a wonderful collection.
In Montmorillon itself and a stone’s throw from Maison Calla, is the 12 th century Church of Notre Dame, the town’s main focal point. There, in the Crypt of St Catherine are a series of lovely frescos depicting episodes from the life of the virgin martyr of Alexandria. Taking centre stage, however is a scene showing the Virgin Mary welcoming a procession of the holy women to see the baby Jesus. The crypt is open all year, the key is available from the hospital (behind the church, up the hill and just down the road from Maison Calla).
The church has been added to over the years and some areas are believed to have been strengthened during the 100 year war. There is some lovely stained glass windows, including one depicting “The Miracle on the Bridge” . This refers to a time during the 19th century when the bridge over the Gartempe, the only one linking the old and new town, was in danger of collapse from a huge build up of floodwater and breaking ice.
The population turned out to process the statue of St Catherine and - miraculously - the ice broke away and the bridge was saved.
In the North Apsidal, a 17 th century tile representing Christ’s Lament.
Another “must see” is Montmorillon’s Octogone a cemetery chapel within La Maison-Dieu. It is the town’s earliest monument and is believed to be a replica of the St-Sépulcre (Holy Sepulchre) in Jerusalem. Its eight-sided shape is said to represent "renewal"; of birth and of resurrection. In past times it was used as an ossuary, the lower part housing human remains prior to burial.
Group guided visits can be arranged by phoning 05 49 84 30 00. Out of season, the key is available from the tourist office.
La Maison-Dieu is a former monastery hospital dating back to the 11 th century. The original buildings were destroyed during the religious wars of the 16 th century. That which stands today dates from the 17 th century.
La chapelle Saint-Laurent was the monastery church. The Romanesque tower and façade are decorated with a frieze depicting the childhood of Christ. During its renovation in the 19th century, the walls of the chapel were decorated with religious paintings. Open during the summer months.
You can go on the official tour of Montmorillon which takes in the Octogone, St Laurent’s Chapel and the hospital, the Brouard District and Notre Dame Church. In June these leave the tourist information office, Saturday and Sunday, 2.30 and 6.30pm; In July and August there are addition tours at the same time each Thursday. At other times of the year you can call in at the tourist information centre and they will arrange a guide at a time to suit your party.
The Valley of Frescos runs from St Savin, through Montmorillon to Saulgé (From the top D11 and then D5)
The Abbey-Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe
Known as the 'Romanesque Sistine Chapel', the Abbey-Church of Saint-Savin contains a mass of beautiful 11th and 12th century murals which are still in a remarkable state of preservation and deemed to be one of the finest set of their kind in the Western World They have been listed by UNESCO as one of its World Heritage masterpieces.
According to legend, the Benedictine abbey was founded during the time of Charlemagne but its actual origins are unclear
The church comprises a central apse with a series of chapels off, opening into an ambulatory and, to the west, a “clocher-porche”. The nave has nine barrel vaults on a double row of very high columns.
The extraordinary painted decoration begins with the vault of the Clocher-porche with images from the Apocalypse. A second series of murals spreads across the vaulting of the central nave and includes the creation of the earth and the stars, the birth of Eve, the temptation, the story of Cain and Able, of Noah and of Joseph.
The passion of Christ is painted in the upper tribune of the porch which also incorporates scenes of the martyrs. Large figures of saints are pained in the choir and on the piers of the transept. Finally the story of Saint Savin and Saint Cyprian occupy the walls of the crypts.
The mural of St Savin alone is listed by World Heritage under category I (masterpiece of creative genius) and III (exceptional testimony to a past civilisation).
Open Mondays to Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 12.30 and from 2 p.m., to 6 p.m. Sunday from 2 p.m., to 6 p.m. Closed in January, November 11th and December 25th and 31st.
Saint-Germain
The pretty paintings in the Chapel of the Virgin at Saint-Germain-des-Prés illustrate the legendary life of Saint Germain, Bishop of Auxerre and are renowned particularly for their Tompe-l’oeil designed to give the impression of bas-reliefs. Guides on hand throughout the summer.
Antigny
Inside Notre Dame Church you will find a series of frescos, dating from the 15 th century. Scenes include the childhood of the Christ, the Passion, Last Judgment and Hell.
A visit is also recommended to the to the archaeological museum at le Gué-de-Sciaux, which houses a wide range of Gallo-Romain remains, plans of the area etc which show the economic and religious importance of Antigny as the crossing point for the Gartempe on the Roman Road from Poitiers to Bourges.
You can also see a beautiful 13 th century "lantern of the morts" at Antigny indicating the site of a former cemetery.
Pindray
The Château de Pruniers dates from 1290 and is home to a series of non-religious frescos including geometric and Arabic designs. One set of frescos depicts the return of the crusaders and dates from the 14 th century.
This fortified stronghold, by the side of the Gartempe, was extensively added to during the 14 th and 15 th centuries. A chapel, rebuilt in the 19 th century and an important pigeonnier complete the buildings.
The château is open every day between May and September, except Tuesdays, and there are multi-lingual guides
Jouhet
The Chapelle funéraire Saint-Catherine within the Church of Notre Dame features a series of frescos depicting the complete history of Christianity.
The church is mentioned in records as early as 1093 and comprises a large rectangular structure with a square steeple. Uniquely it is not vaulted.
The exterior of the church is rendered and encircled by massive stone buttresses and some of the stonework of the steeple show the signs of a fire.
The key to the crypt is available from the nearby cafe "Val of Gartempe"
Saulgé
The Church of Saint-Divitien has whitewashed interior walls which were painting between 1849 and 1880 with geometric patterns, and religious symbols. On weekdays the key to the church is held at the local town hall.
The Priory of Villesalem
Although not part of the Valley of Frescos,The Priory of Villaselem is close by and really worth a visit to see its delightful sculptures, regarded as a "jewel" of Poitou art.
The Priory was founded at the end of the 11 th century by Audebert, Lord of Trimouille and the church was built at the beginning of the 12 th century.
Unfortunately during the French Revolution the buildings were sold and have been used by a variety local landowners.
Now under restoration, the Priory is supported by the Friends of Villesalem who organises an annual fund-raising summer festival of Romanesque art and music.
 
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