Santiago de Compostela in North West Spain, home to the tomb of the apostle St James (Saint Jacques in French, Santiago in Spanish), was the greatest of all goals for thousands of pilgrims from all over Europe throughout the Middle Ages.

The year 2004 saw a huge increase in the number of people re-tracing the steps of the early pilgrims because is was a Jubilee or Holy Year, which means that Saint Jacques day falls on a Sunday. The next time this will happen will be in the year 2010.

Of the four main pilgrimage routes through France one passes right through the Poitou-Charentes region and the other skirts to the right heading for Limoges.

These routes have been classified as World Heritage and some 800 buildings along their paths have been identified as having associations with the pilgrimage.

Of these 69 have World Heritage status including, in our area:- the Church of Sainte-Eutrope, Saintes; the Royal Abbey of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, Saint-Jean d’Angley; the Church of Saint-Hilaire, Melle, the Church of Saint-Pierre, Alunay; The Church of Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand, Poitiers and the former Hôpital des Pèlerins, Pons.

Although not classified the Saint-Jacques church Châtellerault lays claim to being part of the important pilgrimage route and you will find there a fabulous 12th century statue of Saint-Jacques. This same town is where René Descartes spent his childhood and visitors can still see his house, which is now a museum.

If you are wondering how scallops came to be known as Coquilles St. Jacques - A legend says that one day a pilgrim prince was riding a horse on the beach. Suddenly the horse jumped into the sea and the prince thought he was going to die, so he asked Saint Jacques for help. Then hundreds of scallop shells got stuck to the horse feet and the prince was saved. In memory of this miracle. All over the route you will see scallop shells on the walls of houses meaning that they accepted pilgrims.

Church of Saint-Eutrope

Saintes has always had a special significance in Christendom.

Eglise Saint-Eutrope (St. Eutrope's Church) is one of the outstanding buildings on the route. The church today has two levels with identical layouts. A transversal chamber opens on to the nave and side aisles leading to an ambulatory with three radiating chapels

The top section corresponds to the chancel once used by the monks; the lower section was the crypt containing St. Eutrope's relics. To pass from one level to the other, people used the steps halfway along the nave. The nave was demolished in the 19th century. The carvings are outstanding and are famous throughout the Saintes area. In the crypt, their theme is one of foliage. In the chancel, there are mermaids, lions, and geometrical or plant motifs.

Saint Eutrope was the first Bishop of Saintes, but little is truly known about him other than that Gregory of Tours (AD 539-593) includes him in a list of Bishops present in Gaul under the Emperor Decius (AD 249-251).

It is believed that Eutrope travelled to Palestine from Persia after hearing stories about the works of Christ.

He witnessed the feeding of the five thousand, where he met Martial (who later became Saint Martial, the first Bishop of Limoges, and who, according to legend, was the thirteenth apostle).

Later, he was present at Christ's entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. After Jesus’ death he joined the apostles and first disciples and was amongst those who travelled to bring the Gospel to Europe.

In some legends he sailed in the same boat which brought Martha and Mary Magdalene to Les Saintes Manes de Ia Mer; in others he made the voyage with Saint Denis, Saint Martial, or even Saint Peter.

When he arrived in Saintes, he began converting the population, including Princess Estelle, daughter of the Roman governor, who was baptised at the age of 13.

She renounced her father and went to live near Eutrope. Her father would not accept her conversion to Christianity and paid mercenaries to get kill Eutrope They organised a riot and he was stoned, beaten and flogged.

Finally an axe was buried in his head. The following night, Estelle, with his disciples, recovered his body and buried it in her own garden, which then became a place of veneration and of miracles. Estelle was, in turn, beheaded by her father and buried near Eutrope. One of Christianitiy's great love stories which might make a visit to the church worthwhile.

The Royal Abbey of Saint-Jean-Baptiste

Saint-Jean-d’Angély was already capital of Basse Saintonge by the 11th century, when the abbey was founded to house a major relic – Saint John’s skull.

The Benedictine priory and abbey were built on the foundations of the old roman church. It is open to the public during July and August.

The abbey itself has been rebuilt several times but there remain traces of each stage of its development that are fascinating to follow, from the Gothic chevet, now part of the bell-tower, to the17th library and staircases.

The Church of Saint Hilaire

There are three churches in Melle, all worthy of a visit but the most famous is the abbey church of Saint Hilaire which was dedicated in 1067.

It is outstanding for its chevet with ambulatory. The coving on the carved doorway on the north side is decorated with the Labours of the Months, the signs of the zodiac and Virtues defeating Vices. Above the doorway, a niche holds an equestrian figure - one of the "Poitevin Horsemen" - thought to represent Constantine trampling paganism

On the interior archivolt of the south door are carvings of Christ, the Prophets, the Apostles and saints. A wild boar hunt and a series of monstrous animals decorate the capitals in the nave.

St Peter’s Church in Melle is renowned for its capitals in the nave depicting the entombment of Christ with an angel removing the thorns. The tympanum above the South Door is reminiscent of Aulnay, with a figure of Christ sitting between two saints.

On the West Front of St. Savinien's Church is a figure of Christ set in a medallion flanked by two lions. This carving decorates the lintel above the main entrance. Every year, in May or June, the church hosts a classical music festival that attracts internationally famous names.

The regional Centre for Romanesque Art opened in the Saint-Joseph centre in Melle in June 2005.

Church of Saint-Pierre

This church is one of the most outstanding examples of Poitou-style Romanesque architecture and is particularly beautiful in the morning (chevet) and evening (West front).

For the best view of the church, especially the West front, stand at the end of the graveyard slightly to the left of the building.

On the West front, two side arches contain the crucifixion of St. Peter and a carving of Christ in majesty flanked by St. Peter and St. Paul.

On the front of the south arm of the transept, the doorway is flanked by six colonnettes. Its coving is decorated with carvings of animals, oriental-style foliage, the Chosen Few, the old men of the Apocalypse and imaginary people and animals. Above the doorway, the coving round the window is decorated with four effigies of Virtues slaying Vices. The chevet is decorated with some fine modillions and capitals.

Scenes on the carved capitals visible inside the church include Delilah cutting Samson's hair, elephants, the temptation of Adam and Eve and the murder of Abel.

Guided tour Summer tours for individual visitors, May to September, Mondays to Fridays at 10 a.m., 11 a.m, 3 p.m, 4 p.m. and 5 p.m. Visits with audio-guides all year : Tours for parties all year with advanced booking.

Church of Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand

This Poitiers church was built around 1040-1050 and designed to have a plain wooden roof. However, it underwent alterations in the 11th century and was given stone vaulting, which explains why there are so many supports inside the building. The domes, with the exception of those above the transept crossing, were 19th-century inventions. They replaced barrel vaulting.

The church has a host of fine carvings, sculpture and paintings undertaken by the same artists who worked in Saint-Savin.

Hôpital des Pèlerins, Pons

The " New Hospital" (Hôpital neuf) was built between 1150 and 1180 by Geoffrey III of Pons at the entrance to the town and used by pilgrims on their way to Spain as a hostel and hospice. This is one of the few such buildings to have survived in France and it is superb. A medieval garden was established here in the 13 th century. Open June – September.

IHomeIBack to TopIRomanesque Art